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Monday, July 29, 2013

London (or, Why Are There Wax Figures in the Sherlock Holmes Museum?!)

My program took us into London last weekend. We stayed at the Corus Hotel Hyde Park, which is about two blocks from the Lancaster Gate tube station north of Hyde Park, near the Italian Gardens.


It’s a very posh hotel in a very good location, and I’m surprised they spent that much money on us. We drove in on Friday, saw the British Museum and Sherlock Holmes Museum, and then went to our hotel and had a free evening.

The British Museum was very cool. I enjoyed seeing the Elgin Marbles particularly.


Side note: Athens wanted the marbles back, and Britain said, “No, you don’t have the space for them.” Then Athens built a new museum with a huge room that says something like, “Awaiting the return of the Elgin Marbles!” The room displaying the marbles in the British Museum says something like “This space was generously given for the display of the Elgin Marbles by [some British guy].” Passive aggressive archaeological disputes are delightfully sassy.

Disappointingly, you had to pay to get into the Herculaneum and Pompeii exhibit, which was a special rotating collection. I wish I could’ve seen that (it’s one of the things I studied in Roman Archaeology this year). I caught the barest glimpse of the Rosetta Stone—and a longer glimpse from the back—but of course it was very crowded in that area.

Fun story: there’s a copy of the Rosetta Stone in the Enlightenment Room, with no cases or ropes around it or anything, and it was one of the first things I saw. And I was looking at it thinking, “Wow, it’s weird that there’s no case around it like there was last time I was here. And it’s also weird that there are no people around it.” And then I saw a sign that said PLEASE TOUCH and I was like, “Oh, they put—they—wh, wait, what?!?!” And that is the story of the time it took me almost a minute to figure out if something was the Rosetta Stone or not.

It’s only a model. (Shh.)

The Sherlock Holmes Museum was cool but MASSIVELY CROWDED. We were in line for two hours. Everyone was very grumpy by the end but I didn’t mind waiting that much.

 
I was extremely surprised by the spontaneous statues on the upper floor, especially a creepy one of a small blond child (not pictured). A few of my friends went to Madame Tussaud’s on Saturday, but I didn’t really want to and it was a lot of money. I think the Sherlock Holmes surprise made up for my not seeing other wax figures.

Irene Adler and the King of Bohemia. 
Letters to Sherlock. “Dear Mr. Dead Sherlock Holmes…”

We were on our own after we checked into the hotel, so we went to Harrods to look at things we will never be able to afford. The most expensive thing a friend and I found were some large ugly statues for 475,000 pounds. The toy/kids floor was magnificent. There was a cloth playhouse that was big enough for both of us to sit inside and, at its highest point, tall enough for me to stand up in without brushing the ceiling.


We had dinner at an Italian place in Piccadilly Circus and then went to an ice bar, which has a room made of ice imported from Norway. EVERYTHING (the walls, the chairs, the glasses) is made of ice and the room is kept at -5 degrees C.



Ice, ice, baby.

You book a 40-minute session in the room (some of my group members initially thought this was not long enough, but by the end we discovered that 40 minutes was almost too long!) and they give you a special thermal cloak and mittens to keep you from getting too cold. It was very cool (pun unintended). After that we walked around for a while and then went home. We’d been on our feet for about 8 hours so we were very, very tired by the time we got back to the hotel.

On Saturday, we walked through Hyde Park to Parliament, where we had a tour. It was very informative and we had an excellent guide. All of the rooms are very elegant and beautiful. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take pictures behind the scenes :(

Obligatory shot of Big Ben.


The only piece of Parliament I was allowed to photograph.

After Parliament, we had lunch at the Borough Market. We found yummy pies, and they were delicious, but I wish we had walked around more before getting lunch. After we’d eaten, we were walking around and discovered kangaroo burgers. I did get some delicious goat milk honeycomb ice cream, and sampled about 500 different kinds of olive oil. There was an especially tasty one with saffron, but it was rather expensive and I worried about the bottle breaking.






I have a bunch more pictures from the Borough Market, but I’m saving some for the special food post I’ll do at the end of the trip.

The Shard! I recognize this from a Doctor Who episode.

Three of us hung out in the market for a few more hours, talking to locals and stuff. (The others went to see wax figures.) Then we went to King’s Cross to have our pictures taken at Platform 9 & ¾. You can’t get onto the platform proper without a ticket, but they have a display set up outside the toll where you can have your picture taken with a cart disappearing into the wall. There is a guy there whose job it is to put a Hogwarts scarf on you and then, right before the picture is taken, flick the end of the scarf so it looks like it is flapping in the wind from you running at the wall.


All three of us chose blue Ravenclaw scarves (naturally). When the last of us went up and asked for the Ravenclaw scarf too, the photo guy said, “Really? Three Ravenclaws in a row? This has never happened!”

Since it was nearby we also went to the British Library. We only saw the special historical collections section, but it was AMAZING. There were old manuscripts—one of the original copies of Beowulf, ancient sheet music, Mozart’s marriage contract (apparently the ceremony was so beautiful, Mozart reported, that he cried during it), and the oldest page of written English—and a whole room devoted to the Magna Carta, including a copy of it from 1215.

We go all the way to England, and who do we find? Uncle Sam. Can’t get away from ‘Murrica!

After that, we met up with another friend and sat in the Italian Gardens in Hyde Park for an hour or so. It was a relaxing end to the day. We’d planned to go out with our four other friends, but they got VERY lost after they went from the Eye to Buckingham Palace, and it took them 3 hours to get home. I was very tired at that point, though, so I’m kind of glad we didn’t wander around London some more that night.

The Critical Thinking professor, Neal, led the trip to the Globe on Sunday morning. It was REALLY cool—especially the fact that they sell yard seats for only 5 quid, and that they’re building an indoor theater to go with it.

The Millennium Bridge, which I recognize because the Death Eaters destroy it in one of the HP movies.








 
My friends all wanted to go to other places, but Neal was leading a group to St. Paul’s for a sung Eucharist service, so I went there. We couldn’t find the group that was supposed to be leaving the Globe, but since the cathedral was on the way to the tube stop, my friends walked me to it. We were almost there when Neal runs up.

Neal: Are you guys going to St. Paul’s?
Me: I am, but I couldn’t find anyone else so they were just walking me there.
Neal: I couldn’t find anyone either so I just left.

Oops! So I was the kid who sat with the professor during the whole service (afterwards we found some others from the group who had independently made their way over)—classic me. St. Paul’s is breathtakingly beautiful—but once again, no photos allowed inside :(



 
At that point, I was on my own, and since three of my friends had gone to the Victoria and Albert museum, I had a small London/tube adventure and made my way over there. I was not impressed with the V&A at first and tried to convince them to ditch for the natural history museum nearby (we just had to visit one additional museum in London), but then we found some exciting interactive sections which we all greatly enjoyed. Afterwards, we visited the Prince Albert memorial and rested in Hyde Park for an hour before we left for Cambridge.


I’m sorry I’ve been no good at blogging this! Hopefully I’ll write more posts this week and upload them before I’m back in the States.

Sunday, June 30, 2013

The Pirate Restaurant of Penzance (England, Day 2)


Today we woke up to a full English breakfast, which I’ll have photos of tomorrow because tomorrow we will take a picture before digging in. After that we set off on a whirlwind journey, covering the Minack Theater, Land’s End, St. Ives, Lizard Point, and Penzance.

The Minack Theater is an open-air theater that is built into the side of a freakin’ cliff



View from adjacent to the theater. Yes, it’s a long way down.

Guardrails for the actors’ safety had to be added a few years after they opened in 1931, because performing on the edge of a cliff is probably terrifying. The whole theater was built—as in, like, cleared and granite carved and moved—by one woman (Rowena Cade) and her gardener Billy Rawlings and his friend Charles Thomas Angove.

Cade ran the theater from 1931 until her death in 1983. During the hiatus caused by World War II, she crawled under the barbed wire (set up by the army to defend the coast) with her mower to cut the grass. Now THAT’S dedication.
 


Gratuitous theater porn for Diana.
We moved on to Land’s End, the extreme southwestward point in Great Britain. Land’s End to John o’ Groats, the acknowledged northeasternmost point of Scotland, is the traversal of the whole island. A ton of people take the roughly thousand-mile (838 by road, 1200 off-road) journey every year. It’s like the Amazing Race meets Top Gear and a pilgrimage all at once. People have done this journey by automobile, wheelchair, on foot wearing nothing but the clothes on their backs, on foot wearing nothing but boots… you name it, it’s been done.



End of the land at Land’s End, and requisite picture of the famous signpost. They’d put your homeplace and the distance in the sign if you posed for an official photo, but we decided to forgo that cost.


 
Two excellent signs. We COULD see  the Scillies islands. Gratuitous pun for Theo.

From there, we went to St. Ives for lunch. The streets were very narrow and confusing—the English seem to have a thing for one-lane roads. We didn’t meet anyone with an exorbitant amount of wives or sacks full of cats and their kits, but it was very nice all the same.


The beach at St. Ives—it was overcast and only in the low 60s F, but people were surfing and in their bathing suits. I guess the English are determined to holiday no matter what the weather.

In St. Ives, I had my first Cornish pasty! It was full of steak and squash and onion, and I gobbled it up before I got a picture, so I have a fun fact about Cornish pasties from Land’s End instead:

 
Heathcliff, this information may address any concerns you have about ingesting chemicals.

We went horseback riding in Mullion, on a “beach hack”—meaning we took our horses along the water. My horse, Nancy, was scared of the water, but I did get to go trotting for a bit, which made up for it. I always forget how much I love horseback riding! I didn’t take any pictures on the hack, but it was on Polurrian Bay, which you can find on googlemaps.

Lizard Point is the southernmost part of mainland Great Britain. The lighthouse and visitor’s center were closed when we got there, but I walked up to the latter and was rewarded with my favorite sign ever.


Not so secret anymore, eh?
Luckily, I made us take a walk down a wooded path, and since I took the “avoid stairs” route (my family went “via stairs”), I got a nice picture of Lizard Point looking very lizard-y.


I was going to make a guide, but my trackpad is being a massive pain. You’ll have to use your imagination a bit harder if you can't see it.

We’re guessing this is some kind of boat ramp. Other guesses included “bridge to nowhere” and “highway to the danger zone.”

We were going to have dinner somewhere fairly normal, but my dad really wanted to go to Penzance and eat “somewhere pirate-y,” which was exactly what we did. Branwell’s Mill Meadery was an excellent choice.





Tune in tomorrow for St. Michael’s Mount, Falmouth, Pendennis Castle, Mevagissey, and Eden Project!